Re: SER1 Bulkhead removal
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From: Ancarig
Subject: Re: SER1 Bulkhead removal
Date: 22:44 on 03 Sep 2004
Subject: Re: SER1 Bulkhead removal
Date: 22:44 on 03 Sep 2004
-------------------------------1094251487 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hennie How long is a piece of string? It really depends on how easy certain bolts are removable:- First you have to strip the top down - ie remove hardtop/hoodsticks doors and unbolt the windscreen. - easy so far, Then you remove the bonnet and wings. This means disconnecting the bonnet prop, the wiring to the front lights and the bolts fixing the wings to the bulkhead. These bolts can only be reached using an extension to a socket (5/8 whitworth ?) and will probably need a good dousing in WD40 or similar to free them off. As well as the ones vertically set where the wings join the bulkhead you also have two horizontal bolts and a tie bar running horizontally. They are awkward to get at but not impossible. Also you will have to disconnect 3 or 4 bolts at the front end of each wing where it attaches to the radiator panel. Do this and the bulkhead is exposed. (this is a 30 minute job on my S1 but then again I have done it several times for various reasons). Look in the Garage photos where there are lots of photos showing this - Look in Phils Garage - the Photo 'stripped for action' shows what it looks like. On that photo you can see the large bolt at the bottom of the end pillar that holds the bulkhead to the outrigger. That bolt is the last thing you remove. Before that there is the little matter of the floor panels and transmission cover that need removing - again easy access bolts but possibly seised up with age. The clutch and brake pedals will need disconnecting , you disconnect the throttle mechanism at the carb. And then you have all the peices bolted on to the bulkhead - in the engine bay several bits of kit that can be disconnected by wiring (at this stage) and some that have to be actually removed. On the inside there is the instrument panel and controls - check out the connections and wiring to see waht needs disconnecting. In some places it is best to detach from the unit - ie at the dynamo and the distributor but it depends on how original the wiring is.. And that is about it - apart from the steering column as you have to remove the steering wheel. Then undo those two big bolts on the outrigger and lift it out. No need to remove the engine at all. You are talking hours, days or weeks - it depends a) on how seised the original fittings are and b) (and this is probably more important) how many other jobs you uncover by doing this. I may have missed something out - in fact if you check out the manual it is listed as operation R/78 and a slightly different operation in that the steering mecahnism comes out with the bulkhead as you disconnect it at the drop arm from the rocker shaft. Maybe someone has recently done this operation - I haven't but will be doing it in the autumn. Let me know how you get on Phil Cambs UK 88" -------------------------------1094251487 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII"> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY:=20= Arial"=20 bottomMargin=3D7 leftMargin=3D7 topMargin=3D7 rightMargin=3D7><FONT id=3Drol= e_document=20 face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2> <DIV>Hennie</DIV> <DIV>How long is a piece of string?</DIV> <DIV> It really depends on how easy certain bolts are removable:-</DIV> <DIV>First you have to strip the top down - ie remove hardtop/hoodsticks doo= rs=20 and unbolt the windscreen. - easy so far,</DIV> <DIV>Then you remove the bonnet and wings.</DIV> <DIV>This means disconnecting the bonnet prop, the wiring to the front light= s=20 and the bolts fixing the wings to the bulkhead. These bolts can only be reac= hed=20 using an extension to a socket (5/8 whitworth ?) and will probably need= a=20 good dousing in WD40 or similar to free them off. As well as the ones vertic= ally=20 set where the wings join the bulkhead you also have two horizontal bolt= s=20 and a tie bar running horizontally. They are awkward to get at but not=20 impossible. Also you will have to disconnect 3 or 4 bolts at the front end o= f=20 each wing where it attaches to the radiator panel.</DIV> <DIV>Do this and the bulkhead is exposed. (this is a 30 minute job on my S1=20= but=20 then again I have done it several times for various reasons).</DIV> <DIV>Look in the Garage photos where there are lots of photos showing this -= =20 Look in Phils Garage - the Photo 'stripped for action' shows what it looks=20 like.</DIV> <DIV>On that photo you can see the large bolt at the bottom of the end pilla= r=20 that holds the bulkhead to the outrigger. That bolt is the last thing you=20 remove.</DIV> <DIV>Before that there is the little matter of the floor panels and transmis= sion=20 cover that need removing - again easy access bolts but possibly seised up wi= th=20 age.</DIV> <DIV>The clutch and brake pedals will need disconnecting , you disconn= ect=20 the throttle mechanism at the carb.</DIV> <DIV>And then you have all the peices bolted on to the bulkhead - in th= e=20 engine bay several bits of kit that can be disconnected by wiring (at t= his=20 stage) and some that have to be actually removed. On the inside there is the= =20 instrument panel and controls - check out the connections and wiring to see=20= waht=20 needs disconnecting. In some places it is best to detach from the unit - ie=20= at=20 the dynamo and the distributor but it depends on how original the wiring=20 is..</DIV> <DIV>And that is about it - apart from the steering column as you have to re= move=20 the steering wheel. </DIV> <DIV>Then undo those two big bolts on the outrigger and lift it out.</DIV> <DIV>No need to remove the engine at all.</DIV> <DIV>You are talking hours, days or weeks - it depends </DIV> <DIV>a) on how seised the original fittings are and </DIV> <DIV>b) (and this is probably more important) how many other jobs you uncove= r by=20 doing this.</DIV> <DIV>I may have missed something out - in fact if you check out the manual i= t is=20 listed as operation R/78 and a slightly different operation in that the stee= ring=20 mecahnism comes out with the bulkhead as you disconnect it at the drop arm f= rom=20 the rocker shaft.</DIV> <DIV>Maybe someone has recently done this operation - I haven't but will be=20 doing it in the autumn.</DIV> <DIV>Let me know how you get on</DIV> <DIV>Phil</DIV> <DIV>Cambs UK</DIV> <DIV>88"</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML> -------------------------------1094251487-- To change subscription see www.landrover.net/series1/mail
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SER1 Bulkhead removal
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Re: SER1 Bulkhead removal
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Re: SER1 Bulkhead removal
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RE: SER1 Bulkhead removal
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Re: SER1 Bulkhead removal
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