Fw: SER1 RR Classic Q
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From: Peter Thomson
Subject: Fw: SER1 RR Classic Q
Date: 00:54 on 16 Jul 2005
Subject: Fw: SER1 RR Classic Q
Date: 00:54 on 16 Jul 2005
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----- Original Message -----=20
From: Peter Thomson=20
To: series1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx=20
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 3:34 AM
Subject: Re: SER1 RR Classic Q
First thing is check all your ground straps. Make shore their all well =
grounded and clean. They might look good but thy oxide where bolted on. =
When I bought my OR/OR it had been sitting for some time and I was =
running into problems rebuilt the starter and alternator and found out =
my ground straps were all corroded. This may not be your problem , but =
it's worth checking. It's like my S1, I was starting it one day with the =
hood open and saw the water temp cable glowing red hot. My ground strap =
needed cleaning. Peter.
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Paul Edmunds=20
To: series1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx=20
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: SER1 RR Classic Q
Hi all=20
Try cleaning out the engine breathers and the idle air chamber which =
is the housing on the back of the plenum that the idle air valve screws =
into. As micheal says this is a common problem although I am not sure =
about them ALL doing it! I hav'nt seen all of them myself. after =
cleaning out the breathers and replacing any hoses you must do a base =
idle reset, which to do correctly requires a hand held =
tester.....................Paul..................
Michael Carradine <mc@xxxxxxxxx.xxx> wrote:
At 12:43 PM 7/14/2005, Matthew J. Clark wrote:
>I know this isn't a Series One question, but it is a Land Rover! My =
RR
>Classic (93 3.9L ABS SWB) has a "surging" issue when running at =
about
>2250-2500rpm. It seems to run fine when going down the road. When I =
turn
>on most any electrical accessory in the truck like the headlights, =
fan, AC,
>windscreen defroster or rear defroster, it starts to run poorly and =
surge.
>It is a similar feeling to when you have an air leak in a 2L =
engine's fuel
>line like a loose connection a the pump or carb. When running at =
other
>RPMs, especially higher revs when the engine kicks down a gear, it =
runs fine
>and the surging goes away. Or, if I downshift and run the revs at =
3000+, it
>runs fine. The RR has a new alternator (genuine LR), new rotor & =
cap, new
>plugs and! wires and the breather system and canister have recently =
been
>cleaned. I'm running an NRP stainless exhaust with original O2 =
sensors.
>The engine has about 190k miles on it. Both my mechanic and I have =
felt we
>have exhausted our leads. He is chalking it up to an old engine.
All RR's do that! Read all about it at=20
ww.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm#surging
Some say it's the idle air bypass valve / stepper motor, but it=20
probably won't help.
The dealers even suggest to upgrade the CPU ($1'000 for a 25 cent =
chip). Wait
until it starts stalling as you slow down or at an intersection -=20
loads of fun with
your kids in the car as you loose power brakes and steering - while=20
opposing cars
bear down on you. It's so common and dangerous, NHTSA =
www.nhtsa.dot.gov
should make Land Rover Group Ltd. fix or buy the cars back, but hey, =
there aren't
enough on the road to worry about a few lives, and besides, it would =
be bad for
Ford stock.
Michael Carradine
1988 and 1989 RR classics
1950 LR historic
To change subscription see www.landrover.net/series1/mail
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<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----=20
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
title=3Drazorback2@xxxxxxxxx.xx =
href=3D"mailto:razorback2@xxxxxxxxx.xx">Peter=20
Thomson</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dseries1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx=20
href=3D"mailto:series1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx">series1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx</A>; </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, July 15, 2005 3:34 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: SER1 RR Classic Q</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>First thing is check all your ground =
straps. Make=20
shore their all well grounded and clean. They might look good but thy =
oxide=20
where bolted on. When I bought my OR/OR it had been sitting for some =
time and I=20
was running into problems rebuilt the starter and alternator and found =
out my=20
ground straps were all corroded. This may not be your problem , but it's =
worth=20
checking. It's like my S1, I was starting it one day with the hood open =
and saw=20
the water temp cable glowing red hot. My ground strap needed =
cleaning. =20
Peter.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A title=3Dado15mini@xxxxxxxxx.xxx =
href=3D"mailto:ado15mini@xxxxxxxxx.xxx">Paul=20
Edmunds</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dseries1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx=20
href=3D"mailto:series1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx">series1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx</A>; </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, July 14, 2005 =
10:12=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: SER1 RR Classic =
Q</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Hi all </DIV>
<DIV>Try cleaning out the engine breathers and the idle air chamber =
which is=20
the housing on the back of the plenum that the idle air valve screws =
into. As=20
micheal says this is a common problem although I am not sure about =
them ALL=20
doing it! I hav'nt seen all of them myself. after cleaning out the =
breathers=20
and replacing any hoses you must do a base idle reset, which to do =
correctly=20
requires a hand held=20
tester.....................Paul..................<BR><BR><B><I>Michael =
Carradine <mc@xxxxxxxxx.xxx></I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dreplbq=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px =
solid">At=20
12:43 PM 7/14/2005, Matthew J. Clark <MJC@xxxx.xx>wrote:<BR>>I =
know this=20
isn't a Series One question, but it is a Land Rover! My =
RR<BR>>Classic=20
(93 3.9L ABS SWB) has a "surging" issue when running at=20
about<BR>>2250-2500rpm. It seems to run fine when going down the =
road.=20
When I turn<BR>>on most any electrical accessory in the truck =
like the=20
headlights, fan, AC,<BR>>windscreen defroster or rear defroster, =
it=20
starts to run poorly and surge.<BR>>It is a similar feeling to =
when you=20
have an air leak in a 2L engine's fuel<BR>>line like a loose =
connection a=20
the pump or carb. When running at other<BR>>RPMs, especially =
higher revs=20
when the engine kicks down a gear, it runs fine<BR>>and the =
surging goes=20
away. Or, if I downshift and run the revs at 3000+, it<BR>>runs =
fine. The=20
RR has a new alternator (genuine LR), new rotor & cap, =
new<BR>>plugs=20
and! wires and the breather system and canister have recently=20
been<BR>>cleaned. I'm running an NRP stainless exhaust with =
original O2=20
sensors.<BR>>The engine has about 190k miles on it. Both my =
mechanic and=20
I have felt we<BR>>have exhausted our leads. He is chalking it up =
to an=20
old engine.<BR><BR>All RR's do that! Read all about it at=20
<BR>ww.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm#surging<BR>Some say it's the =
idle air=20
bypass valve / stepper motor, but it <BR>probably won't help.<BR>The =
dealers=20
even suggest to upgrade the CPU ($1'000 for a 25 cent chip). =
Wait<BR>until=20
it starts stalling as you slow down or at an intersection - =
<BR>loads of fun=20
with<BR>your kids in the car as you loose power brakes and steering =
- while=20
<BR>opposing cars<BR>bear down on you. It's so common and dangerous, =
NHTSA=20
www.nhtsa.dot.gov<BR>should make Land Rover Group Ltd. fix or buy =
the cars=20
back, but hey, <BR>there aren't<BR>enough on the road to worry about =
a few=20
lives, and besides, it would be bad for<BR>Ford =
stock.<BR><BR>Michael=20
Carradine<BR>1988 and 1989 RR classics<BR>1950 LR =
historic<BR><BR><BR><BR>To=20
change subscription see=20
www.landrover.net/series1/mail<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></=
HTML>
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Fw: SER1 RR Classic Q
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