Re: SER1 What to do to the interior of the chassis

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Urico,

Steam cleaning the inside of the frame would be good to get the=20
accumulated mud out as that is what holds the water against the metal. =20=

  I also pointed my grit blaster into every opening to knock any surface=20=

rust loose.  Then I applied the Waxoyl or Dinitrol to the cavities.  =20
Also a good idea to do the same to the steel bulkhead as there are=20
plenty of rust-traps.

Here in the states, a company called Eastwood,=20
http://www.eastwoodcompany.com
sells a rust encapsulator paint which has a good reputation.  I think=20
it is basicially commercial bridge paint sold in smaller containers.  I=20=

used it and so far the results are good.

We have to bear in mind that at best we can stop further rusting, but=20
this is not alchemy where we can turn rust back into steel.
Wayne

On Tuesday, February 8, 2005, at 09:17 AM, Ulrico Becker wrote:

> The latest wheather report from 9 deg E, 48 deg N (Munich), altitude=20=

> 665 m:
> =A0
> wind W 15 kn, 1/8 cumuli and stratocumuli, no downfall in the last 8h,=20=

> sight > 5m, -7 dec celsius....
> =A0
> this was the special for Diana!
> =A0
> Now to the chassis: Treatment of the outside is pretty straight=20
> forward, sand blasting or wire brushing, depending on equipment=20
> available. Then several coats of paint, the selection of which seems=20=

> to be an art by itself... I would go for hammerit for lack of=20
> knowledge of better alternatives.
> =A0
> But what have those of you who have completed your project done to the=20=

> interior parts? Just waxoiling as it is? What should be done to it? If=20=

> I cut the rear cross member off I intend to insert a hose from a steam=20=

> cleaner into it (my neighbour has one to free blocked pipes) and blast=20=

> all the mud out. But what then?
> =A0
> I would be really glad to participate in your experiences.
> =A0
> Ulrico

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Urico,

=20

Steam cleaning the inside of the frame would be good to get the
accumulated mud out as that is what holds the water against the metal. =20=

I also pointed my grit blaster into every opening to knock any surface
rust loose.  Then I applied the Waxoyl or Dinitrol to the cavities. =20
Also a good idea to do the same to the steel bulkhead as there are
plenty of rust-traps.


Here in the states, a company called Eastwood,
http://www.eastwoodcompany.com

sells a rust encapsulator paint which has a good reputation.  I think
it is basicially commercial bridge paint sold in smaller containers.=20
I used it and so far the results are good.


We have to bear in mind that at best we can stop further rusting, but
this is not alchemy where we can turn rust back into steel.=20

Wayne


On Tuesday, February 8, 2005, at 09:17 AM, Ulrico Becker wrote:


<excerpt><fontfamily><param>Arial</param>The latest wheather report
from 9 deg E, 48 deg N (Munich), altitude 665 m:</fontfamily>

=A0

<fontfamily><param>Arial</param>wind W 15 kn, 1/8 cumuli and
stratocumuli, no downfall in the last 8h, sight > 5m, -7 dec
celsius....</fontfamily>

=A0

<fontfamily><param>Arial</param>this was the special for =
Diana!</fontfamily>

=A0

<fontfamily><param>Arial</param>Now to the chassis: Treatment of the
outside is pretty straight forward, sand blasting or wire brushing,
depending on equipment available. Then several coats of paint, the
selection of which seems to be an art by itself... I would go for
hammerit for lack of knowledge of better alternatives.</fontfamily>

=A0

<fontfamily><param>Arial</param>But what have those of you who have
completed your project done to the interior parts? Just waxoiling as
it is? What should be done to it? If I cut the rear cross member off I
intend to insert a hose from a steam cleaner into it (my neighbour has
one to free blocked pipes) and blast all the mud out. But what =
then?</fontfamily>

=A0

<fontfamily><param>Arial</param>I would be really glad to participate
in your experiences.</fontfamily>

=A0

<fontfamily><param>Arial</param>Ulrico</fontfamily>

</excerpt>=

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