AW: SER1 Chassis Bushings

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 This is certainly the easiest way. Using  a new saw blade will make things
pretty easy. After havig sawn through the outer ring, use a an old screw
driver, about 6 - 8 mm wide as a chisel. This is both small enough and
strong enough to easily curl up the steel ring.

Be careful with opening up the bore. Cleaning with a wire brush should be
sufficient. The bush has to be a light press fit otherwise they will be
useless. Use sufficient MoS2 grease to get them in. This will also prevent
rusting to some degree.

A simple tool, as suggested, can be made. I made one and after some trials
got it right using a 14.9 threaded rod and corresponding nut. (14.9 means
1400 N/sqmm tensile strength with 90% elasticity; In the UK and the US this
material grade may be called differently) This is a heat treated material
and the thread is compressed and ground at the base to reduce kerb effects.
This serves well to press the bushes in. Only custom made part was a little
hat with exactly the diameter of the outer ring to avoid crusching the bush
when pushing it in.

Commercially available systems have a hydraulic cylinder and pull the bush
out.

Ulrico

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: series1-host@xxxxxxxxx.xxx [mailto:series1-host@xxxxxxxxx.xxx] Im
Auftrag von Jeremy Bartlett
Gesendet: Montag, 4. April 2005 22:51
An: series1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx
Betreff: Re: SER1 Chassis Bushings

If you don't have picky neighbours, burn the bushings with a propane torch
and let them burn out the inners then cut the outer (or alternatively you
can sometimes air hammer them out with the appropriate size socket if you
have the tools).
To install original bushings heat the frame with propane (or gently with
acetylene) and hammer in a previously frozen bushing suitably lubricated
with antisieze using a suitably sized piece of pipe or socket.  As Frank
says, poly bushes are easier.
Jeremy




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