Re: SER1 RR Classic Q

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From: Paul Edmunds
Subject: Re: SER1 RR Classic Q
Date: 02:12 on 15 Jul 2005
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Hi all 
Try cleaning out the engine breathers and the idle air chamber which is the housing on the back of the plenum that the idle air valve screws into. As micheal says this is a common problem although I am not sure about them ALL doing it! I hav'nt seen all of them myself. after cleaning out the breathers and replacing any hoses you must do a base idle reset, which to do correctly requires a hand held tester.....................Paul..................

Michael Carradine <mc@xxxxxxxxx.xxx> wrote:
At 12:43 PM 7/14/2005, Matthew J. Clark wrote:
>I know this isn't a Series One question, but it is a Land Rover! My RR
>Classic (93 3.9L ABS SWB) has a "surging" issue when running at about
>2250-2500rpm. It seems to run fine when going down the road. When I turn
>on most any electrical accessory in the truck like the headlights, fan, AC,
>windscreen defroster or rear defroster, it starts to run poorly and surge.
>It is a similar feeling to when you have an air leak in a 2L engine's fuel
>line like a loose connection a the pump or carb. When running at other
>RPMs, especially higher revs when the engine kicks down a gear, it runs fine
>and the surging goes away. Or, if I downshift and run the revs at 3000+, it
>runs fine. The RR has a new alternator (genuine LR), new rotor & cap, new
>plugs and wires and the breather system and canister have recently been
>cleaned. I'm running an NRP stainless exhaust with original O2 sensors.
>The engine has about 190k miles on it. Both my mechanic and I have felt we
>have exhausted our leads. He is chalking it up to an old engine.

All RR's do that! Read all about it at 
ww.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm#surging
Some say it's the idle air bypass valve / stepper motor, but it 
probably won't help.
The dealers even suggest to upgrade the CPU ($1'000 for a 25 cent chip). Wait
until it starts stalling as you slow down or at an intersection - 
loads of fun with
your kids in the car as you loose power brakes and steering - while 
opposing cars
bear down on you. It's so common and dangerous, NHTSA www.nhtsa.dot.gov
should make Land Rover Group Ltd. fix or buy the cars back, but hey, 
there aren't
enough on the road to worry about a few lives, and besides, it would be bad for
Ford stock.

Michael Carradine
1988 and 1989 RR classics
1950 LR historic



To change subscription see www.landrover.net/series1/mail


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<DIV>Hi all </DIV>
<DIV>Try cleaning out the engine breathers and the idle air chamber which is the housing on the back of the plenum that the idle air valve screws into. As micheal says this is a common problem although I am not sure about them ALL doing it! I hav'nt seen all of them myself. after cleaning out the breathers and replacing any hoses you must do a base idle reset, which to do correctly requires a hand held tester.....................Paul..................<BR><BR><B><I>Michael Carradine &lt;mc@xxxxxxxxx.xxx&gt;</I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">At 12:43 PM 7/14/2005, Matthew J. Clark <MJC@xxxx.xx>wrote:<BR>&gt;I know this isn't a Series One question, but it is a Land Rover! My RR<BR>&gt;Classic (93 3.9L ABS SWB) has a "surging" issue when running at about<BR>&gt;2250-2500rpm. It seems to run fine when going down the road. When I turn<BR>&gt;on most any electrical accessory in the truck like the headlights, fan, AC,<BR>&gt;windscreen defroster or rear defroster, it starts to run poorly and surge.<BR>&gt;It is a similar feeling to when you have an air leak in a 2L engine's fuel<BR>&gt;line like a loose connection a the pump or carb. When running at other<BR>&gt;RPMs, especially higher revs when the engine kicks down a gear, it runs fine<BR>&gt;and the surging goes away. Or, if I downshift and run the revs at 3000+, it<BR>&gt;runs fine. The RR has a new alternator (genuine LR), new rotor &amp; cap, new<BR>&gt;plugs and!
  wires
 and the breather system and canister have recently been<BR>&gt;cleaned. I'm running an NRP stainless exhaust with original O2 sensors.<BR>&gt;The engine has about 190k miles on it. Both my mechanic and I have felt we<BR>&gt;have exhausted our leads. He is chalking it up to an old engine.<BR><BR>All RR's do that! Read all about it at <BR>ww.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm#surging<BR>Some say it's the idle air bypass valve / stepper motor, but it <BR>probably won't help.<BR>The dealers even suggest to upgrade the CPU ($1'000 for a 25 cent chip). Wait<BR>until it starts stalling as you slow down or at an intersection - <BR>loads of fun with<BR>your kids in the car as you loose power brakes and steering - while <BR>opposing cars<BR>bear down on you. It's so common and dangerous, NHTSA www.nhtsa.dot.gov<BR>should make Land Rover Group Ltd. fix or buy the cars back, but hey, <BR>there aren't<BR>enough on the road to worry about a few lives, and besides, it would be bad for<BR>Ford
 stock.<BR><BR>Michael Carradine<BR>1988 and 1989 RR classics<BR>1950 LR historic<BR><BR><BR><BR>To change subscription see www.landrover.net/series1/mail<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE>;
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To change subscription see www.landrover.net/series1/mail

SER1 RR Classic Q
Matthew J. Clark 19:43 on 14 Jul 2005

Re: SER1 RR Classic Q
Michael Carradine 22:04 on 14 Jul 2005

Re: SER1 RR Classic Q
Paul Edmunds 02:12 on 15 Jul 2005

Re: SER1 RR Classic Q
Peter Thomson 07:34 on 15 Jul 2005

Re: SER1 RR Classic Q
David Thorburn 02:34 on 15 Jul 2005

Re: SER1 RR Classic Q
Eighty Inch 00:45 on 15 Jul 2005

RE: SER1 RR Classic Q
Mark Strangways 07:04 on 15 Jul 2005

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