Re: SER1 Spring bolts

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Ulrico

I am assuming that you are talking about the shackle pins and not the "U"
bolts. However Ian is quite correct about the U bolts.  And just remind me
you do have the wide front springs don't you?

You need to thoroughly investigate the state of the shackle pins and plates
(and even the spring hangers on the other end) for wear.  If there are
semi-circular grooves in the plates or a good pin is loose in the
non-threaded plate then the plate should be replaced.  If the pin/s has
flats or evidence of wear then they should be replaced also.

Now to the point of the answer.
The 80" pins have 9/16" shaft then a shoulder to reduce down to 1/2" BSF for
the threaded shackle plate.
The Series III and Series IIa have 9/16" UNF shackle pins matching the
9/16"UNF thread in the shackle plate.

The Series III shackle plates are about 9/16" longer than the originals for
the 80" although the pins are the same length on the front springs.

You can use either the originals for the 80" if you can find them or
retrofit the later series III type which will lift the suspension by about
1/4".  But you should do both front and back.  If you go the series III
route you will have to purchase the correct length 9/16" UNF HT pins from an
engineering supplier.

A note or warning, I received some via mail order that were made by
different manufacturers and they wouldn't align without stripping the
thread.  So check the plates for paired alignment before you leave the shop.
Do this by putting both pins through the non-threaded plate, then screwing
both the pins into the threaded plate (the correct way as if they were on
the vehicle).  The pins should align and thread in easily.  Do this for all
four pairs.  If they won't align easily swap them with the vendor till you
get a full set that do.  This will save some very frustrating time trying to
get them to align on the vehicle.

EIR

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ian Stuart" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.xxx>
To: <series1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx>
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: SER1 Spring bolts




Ulrico Becker wrote:
> Now it is time to sort out all the bits needed to rebuild diffs and axles.
> As one of the diffs has poured out, togehter with the oil, several teeth
of
> something, I am sure some surprises will be waiting there.
Fortunately, 4.7 diffs are the same across all models... though be sure
that you don't do what I did: put a diff with no fill-hole into a casing
with no fill-hole.... D'Oh!

> The front spring bolts did not survive the dismantling process. One is a
bit
> bent the others have damaged threads. Looking at my SIII in front of the
> door, they seem to be somewhat different. Notably the front spring bolts
of
> the 80" have a shoulder which I do not recall from the SIII when I put in
> new springs some 6 or 7 years ago.
My narrow-leaf 80 U-bolts are physically thinner (round-bar diameter)
than the SIII ones.

> Can I simply reorder new bolts from Paddock or to I have to go for the
> correct part number from Craddock or Dunfolds?
I can't remember where I got mine from, but the U-bolts were not a
hassle to get...

        -- 
        



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