AW: SER1 Spring bolts

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Hi Eighty,

yes to all your first questions (shackle pins, wide front springs). I have
already replaced one rear spring hanger as the bore was totally oval.The
other one is ok.

The shackle plates all seem in good condition. Knowing the now the
differences and interchangeability with the SIII, I will make a close
assessment on all pins, front and rear and decide from there. Living in
Germany, there is no other option than mail ordering these parts and take
the risk of misalignment. I think the problem really occured only on the
front springs.

Something else worrying me is the fact that the new chassis bushes seem to
be much bigger in diameter than the bores (bush 30,1x against bore 30,0)
giving it a very tight interference fit.

Would you or anybody else know the nominal dimensions of bore and bush?

Ulrico

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: series1-host@xxxxxxxxx.xxx [mailto:series1-host@xxxxxxxxx.xxx] Im
Auftrag von Eighty Inch
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Juni 2005 15:27
An: series1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx
Betreff: Re: SER1 Spring bolts

Ulrico

I am assuming that you are talking about the shackle pins and not the "U"
bolts. However Ian is quite correct about the U bolts.  And just remind me
you do have the wide front springs don't you?

You need to thoroughly investigate the state of the shackle pins and plates
(and even the spring hangers on the other end) for wear.  If there are
semi-circular grooves in the plates or a good pin is loose in the
non-threaded plate then the plate should be replaced.  If the pin/s has
flats or evidence of wear then they should be replaced also.

Now to the point of the answer.
The 80" pins have 9/16" shaft then a shoulder to reduce down to 1/2" BSF for
the threaded shackle plate.
The Series III and Series IIa have 9/16" UNF shackle pins matching the
9/16"UNF thread in the shackle plate.

The Series III shackle plates are about 9/16" longer than the originals for
the 80" although the pins are the same length on the front springs.

You can use either the originals for the 80" if you can find them or
retrofit the later series III type which will lift the suspension by about
1/4".  But you should do both front and back.  If you go the series III
route you will have to purchase the correct length 9/16" UNF HT pins from an
engineering supplier.

A note or warning, I received some via mail order that were made by
different manufacturers and they wouldn't align without stripping the
thread.  So check the plates for paired alignment before you leave the shop.
Do this by putting both pins through the non-threaded plate, then screwing
both the pins into the threaded plate (the correct way as if they were on
the vehicle).  The pins should align and thread in easily.  Do this for all
four pairs.  If they won't align easily swap them with the vendor till you
get a full set that do.  This will save some very frustrating time trying to
get them to align on the vehicle.

EIR




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