Re: SER1 Distributor question
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At 05:06 AM 2/1/2005, Ulrico wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font face="arial">during the
preparations to start the 80incher two questions came to my mind:<br>
1. When transmitting the spark to the plugs, should the
"finger" inside the distributor actually be touching the
contacts in the cap or is the spark expected to jump the gap? If it
should touch how do you compensate for wear?</font></blockquote><br>
By "finger" I assume you are referring to the rotor,<br>
the plastic pointer sitting on the top of the shaft.<br>
The spark is a high tension discharge (1'000's of volts)<br>
coming from the coil in the center and being directed<br>
to the various spark plug cables in turn. The point of<br>
the rotor does not touch the contacts in the cap.<br>
Notice the rotor end has a wide arc to assure that it<br>
is directly opposite one on the contacts as the spark<br>
is discharged. It does jump the gap and eventually<br>
cause wear on both contact surfaces as evidenced<br>
by burning, pitting and carbonization. As part of your<br>
regular 100'000 mi servicing, I suggest cleaning the<br>
rotor and contacts, wether they need it or not.<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font face="arial">2. Is it
possible to fit later series distributors to 2l
engines?</font></blockquote><br>
Later distributors may have vacuum advance devices<br>
as used for emission control, or other features which<br>
may make them unsuitable, even if they physically fit.<br>
It would be best to retain the original unit if possible.<br><br>
If you have a wobbly distributor shaft making it near<br>
impossible to maintain accurate timing, it may be<br>
possible to install an electronic ignition module such<br>
as Pertronix or others. These modules replace the<br>
contact point set and disconnect the condenser.<br>
A plastic ring with 4 magnetic metal bars fits over the<br>
distributor shaft and sets off a trigger mounted in<br>
place of the points. All components remain inside<br>
in the distributor to maintain the original look from<br>
the engine compartment. Timing will be rock-solid<br>
and there are no points to wear out. Cost is usually<br>
$100-150 for a unit. However, wiring to positive<br>
ground may be tricky =:0<br><br>
Michael Carradine<br>
Early 1950 80" RHD ex-MoD</body>
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