Re: AW: SER1 Seized Engine

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Did they tell you what to do when the wall fell down and the the whole building
was consumed by flames ?

Tom C.

Ulrico Becker wrote:

> Hello Adam,
>
> during my years in Portugal I have discussed exactly this issue with quite
> some "old hands" of the trade. The method they have sworn to be the best is
> subtle but takes some time:
>
> Unbolt the sump, the crank shaft and lift it off. Turn the engine back to
> its normal position and place it close to a wall, the crank axis parallel to
> this. Get a large piece of timber, a girder and bolt it horizontally against
> the wall. Get four equally large pieces, four short ones that will stand
> inside the cylinders (head is off, of course) and four heavy stones (may be
> 30 to 50kg or 4 to 7 stones for our imperial friends).
>
> Stand the short timbers into the cylinders and place the long ones on top,
> wedging them under the horizontal one that has been bolted against the wall.
> Hang the stones at the end of each long timber.
>
> You have got now a leaver mechanism that continually exerts pressure on top
> of the pistons pushing them down. The longer the timber and the closer the
> engine stands against the wall, the better the ratio and the higher the
> pressure on the pistons.
>
> Now pour petroleum, like used in lamps, into the cylinders and let it stand.
> Make sure the pistons are always covered with it. Eventually the petroleum
> plus the continuous pressure will work and free the piston. As I have been
> told this can take some time, meaning up to 4 weeks.
>
> The "old hands" told me this would be a very soft approach and that pistons
> often could be used again.
>
> You have to bear in  mind that the people who told me this lived in a
> country where, in the sixties and seventies, spare parts where rare and
> great efforts were spent on repairing things. So, from what I personally
> have learned and seen there, I believe this could work.
>
> Hope my explanation is understandable.
>
> Cheers, Ulrico
>
> -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: series1-host@xxxxxxxxx.xxx [mailto:series1-host@xxxxxxxxx.xxx] Im
> Auftrag von Adam C. Hodge
> Gesendet: Freitag, 3. Juni 2005 03:07
> An: Series 1 Mailing List
> Betreff: SER1 Seized Engine
>
> Hello All,
>
>    I apologise if this topic has come up before (I imagine it will have
> considering the age of the vehicles and the number of which are coming back
> from poor lives in barns, fields, or otherwise!).
>
> I have a late 2.0L that is stuck solid - much like nearly everything on the
> vehicle, but I digress...
> Currently, the engine is sitting on an engine stand, and most of the
> ancilleries are removed - cylinder head, water pump, oil pump + sump etc..
> are all off.
> The internal bits (camshaft, etc..) and of course crank + rods + pistons are
> still attached.  For the past couple of weeks I have been putting
> penetrating fluid into the cylinders to soak for a few days, each day
> putting a large socket on the crank-pulley (starting dog) and trying to get
> it to move, then flipping it over and soacking the 'bottom side' of
> everything, and again trying to make it move.  I realise this can often take
> a good amount of time, and I'll keep at it a while longer, but I was
> wondering what the list guru's feelings are on some of the alternate (more
> extreme) approaches I have come across.
>
> A common approach is hammer + timber - either timber onto piston and give it
> a smack, or timber on crank and give it a smack.  There are various
> approaches on using the flywheel side - which is the side attached to the
> engine stand unfortunately - via the flywheel teeth, or bolting something to
> it.  Finally, fire...
> put some diesel in the cylinders and light it; the heat causing the metal to
> expand and break the rust free.  I'm somewhat leary about doing more harm
> than good with a hammer though... :)
>
> As it stands I'm just going to keep hoping penetrating fluid and elbow
> grease will get it to go - perhaps see if I can remove valves etc.. the less
> to push against the better I imagine.  If anyone on the list has good or bad
> experiences un-sticking an old engine I would really appreciate the input!
>
> Thanks again in advance! As always any help is greatly appreciated.
> -- Adam
>
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