RE: SER1 Seized Engine

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Hi Adam,

How bad was the corrosion and general condition of the block and 
Pistons etc?....like maybe out of 10,  2 out of 10, 5 out of 10
Or maybe put up some pic's?.....

Different conditions require different methods "therapy".....

Therapy being penetrating oil, or therapy with various size
Hammers....:o)

The heat thing is last resort....there are a few ways to do this,
Maybe just use a suitable "blow hot air" type heater and thermally heat
The whole block and try gentle persuasion with wood and hammer...
This will take quite some time to heat it through....

Bruce Stewart
Technical Officer
CSIRO Land & Water
Ph 02 62465583
Mb 0428 442 926
http://www.clw.csiro.au/staff/StewartB/

Hello All,

   I apologise if this topic has come up before (I
imagine it will have considering the age of the
vehicles and the number of which are coming back from
poor lives in barns, fields, or otherwise!).

I have a late 2.0L that is stuck solid - much like
nearly everything on the vehicle, but I digress... 
Currently, the engine is sitting on an engine stand,
and most of the ancilleries are removed - cylinder
head, water pump, oil pump + sump etc.. are all off. 
The internal bits (camshaft, etc..) and of course
crank + rods + pistons are still attached.  For the
past couple of weeks I have been putting penetrating
fluid into the cylinders to soak for a few days, each
day putting a large socket on the crank-pulley
(starting dog) and trying to get it to move, then
flipping it over and soacking the 'bottom side' of
everything, and again trying to make it move.  I
realise this can often take a good amount of time, and
I'll keep at it a while longer, but I was wondering
what the list guru's feelings are on some of the
alternate (more extreme) approaches I have come
across.

A common approach is hammer + timber - either timber
onto piston and give it a smack, or timber on crank
and give it a smack.  There are various approaches on
using the flywheel side - which is the side attached
to the engine stand unfortunately - via the flywheel
teeth, or bolting something to it.  Finally, fire...
put some diesel in the cylinders and light it; the
heat causing the metal to expand and break the rust
free.  I'm somewhat leary about doing more harm than
good with a hammer though... :)

As it stands I'm just going to keep hoping penetrating
fluid and elbow grease will get it to go - perhaps see
if I can remove valves etc.. the less to push against
the better I imagine.  If anyone on the list has good
or bad experiences un-sticking an old engine I would
really appreciate the input!

Thanks again in advance! As always any help is greatly
appreciated.
-- Adam







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