Re: SER1 Petrol tanks revisited

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Just another 5 cents worth - my previous 80" had the tank braised (soldering
with brass) and it worked fine.  I think that the brass is a stronger bond
than the lead solder joint. Another option is silver solder it requires more
heat but again is stronger than regular lead solder.

The old welder who did the tank said that when he's about to heat an old
fuel tank, he always fills them with water to the brim, then puts a flame to
the residual fuel vapours.  His words were that an empty tank is more
dangerous than a full one, more chance of reaching an appropriate fuel flash
point.  I don't know if he welded the tank with the water still in it.

I would also imagine that a welder would prefer a tank without any resin or
bonding material.  So if you are intending to go down the soldering/welding
track don't use a tank sealer till after the weld job.

Diana
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "GRAHAM WOOD" <threemoles@xxxxxxxxxx.xxx>
To: <series1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx>
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: SER1 Petrol tanks revisited


Allan,

Hmmmm, that's not so encouraging!    I've used various tank sealers both
flexible and resin based on motorbike petrol and oil tanks over the years
and they've formed successful and (so far) permanent repairs, but never on
anything the size of the Landrover tank, which I imagine flexes more than a
bike tank ever will.
I'll drop the tank out at the weekend and see exactly what is going on with
it before using the sealer. Watch this space . . . .

Thanks everyone for the various thoughts and suggestions.   I like the idea
of running a fillet of solder into the seams and may have a crack at this
too.

Graham W



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