Re: SER1 Bellhousings...

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Edward

Are you confused by all that - I sure am - I don't know how the 6 cyl
slipped it's way in there but it did.

The first question is "Do you have an 80" or a later vehicle?  In the 80"
there are a few more problems like the starter part of the gearbox
bellhousing protruding through the floor panels.

In the 86" and 107" the front diff and sump are a bit close.

What ever vehicle you have, you need a bellhousing for a 2 1/4 litre engine
from a gearbox no later than suffix "a" (Rover Part No. 277961) otherwise
you will have to change the front layshaft bearing.

In relation to the clutch you can still use the series 1 linkages and cross
shaft, although many people change both the clutch and brake pedals to the
series 2 pendant type giving a hydraulic clutch and getting rid of those
leaky holes in the floor.  ( you can then also seal up those holes in the
chassis bulkhead support outrigger to protect it from rot).

You should be able to use the standard engine mounts

Hope this helps.

Cheers
Diana


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <edwardatherton@xxxxxxx.xx.xx>
To: <series1@xxxxxxxxx.xxx>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 8:00 PM
Subject: SER1 Bellhousings...


A while ago someone (sorry, forgot who!) was putting a 2.25 in place of the
2-litre and needed to change the bellhousing.  As I remember, it was decided
that a late S1 or early S2 bellhousing was needed.
I presume that all the clutch release and so on are retained from inside
the original bellhousing so the S1 clutch can be used.
The 2-litre in my 1957 88" is tired.  I do about 20,000 miles a year (its
my only car!), so I want a 2.25 with all the bits ready to swap over, just
in case...

My question is - how do I recognise the correct bellhousing (or what do I
ask sellers/people to look for) ?

Thanks in advance... Ed

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